Friday, August 31, 2007

Day 9 – Barbadelo


I checked my map and I realized I only had 100 km to go before I reached Compostela. I thought a lot about what Thomas said, and I shared the same sentiment in a way that I also did not want the journey to end. I was beginning to feel the intensity of the sorrow build up. I have been averaging about 30 km a day and I knew if I continued at this rate I would arrive at Compostela too soon and I was not ready to arrive. I still wanted more time to embrace
every experience and enjoy each moment. The thought of having it all end brought sadness in my heart. As a result, I decided to walk only about 20 km a day as a means of trying to extend it.

Ramona and I walked to the next town called Sarria together and when we arrived I stopped by the grocery store to buy food. It was there that I said goodbye to Ramona. She was very good company and I was always impressed by the fire I saw in her especially in the way she spoke about life and her experience on the Camino. She wanted to reach Compostela in a few days and still had 25 km to cover.

I walked to Barbadelo
(the next town) at a slower pace reminiscing all that has happened in such a short period of time and I thanked God in my heart.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Day 8 – Benedictine Monasterio de Samos


Divine providence is one of the primary themes on the Camino. It’s quite fascinating how small miracles continue to occur one after another for everyone on this journey. Whatever you need or what ever you’re looking for, you will find on the Camino.

I woke up at 6:50 a.m. and was ready to leave at 7:20 a.m. It was a cold morning because O Cebreiro was
located high up on the mountain. As soon as I stepped outside I was greeted by the most marvelous site. The sun was rising and across the horizon the sky was painted with a light shade of blue and crimson colour with a golden lining. I was captivated and remained still in silent admiration of such an awesome sight. I said a prayer and thanked God in my heart.


As I made my way down the mountain carefully following the prescribed arrows I began to pray the rosary which I prayed daily. Right after my prayer I thought how nice it would be to have company and surely enough someone comes from behind me starts walking along beside me. His name is Aliver and he is a native of Spain and was also a pilgrim. We conversed in Spanish since it was the only language he spoke and we discussed many things—our experience on the Camino, our travel experiences, faith in God, etc.

From the time I began this walk I've met people who did not know how to speak Spanish and now I am convinced that it is definitely possible for people who don't speak the language to get by because of the power of divine providence on the Camino. But looking back, I don’t think my experience would have been as meaningful if I did not know how to speak in Spanish because I would have missed out on so many wonderful conversations.

My destination for the day was the Benedictine Monastery in Samos. It was a bit of a detour and I didn’t know how to get there but I was determined to go and I was confident that somehow the Lord would provide a way for me. When Aliver and I reached the next town he told me he had to stop for breakfast. We went inside a café and I saw another pilgrim who was just about to leave. I said hello and introduced myself and my friend Aliver and asked her where she was going. She told me that she was going to the Benedictine monastery. She said that she was there last year (when she did the Camino for the first time) but unfortunately when she arrived it was already closed so this year she wanted to arrive on time. I asked her for directions how to get there and she showed me her map but the path was a little bit complicated and I knew I wouldn’t be able to remember all the turns so I asked if I could come with her.


Her name is Ramona and she is a brilliant Romanian girl with a degree in physics. Aliver was still eating breakfast and I asked if he wanted to come but he said to go on without him because he was undecided if he was going to walk the extra kilometes to get there. I said farewell to Aliver and Ramona and I were on our way.

Along the way Ramona shared with me the instances of divine grace that happened to her and many others she encountered on the Camino. She told me of a time when two girls (who were also doing the Camino) set off to find a nearby swimming pool but they were unsuccessful. In their frustration they knocked on someone’s door and asked for directions. The lady who answered the door said she did not know where the pool was but she had a big pool in her own backyard and kindly welcomed them in to enjoy it!!! This was an act of kindness from a complete a stranger.

There was another time when a dutch lady who was already in Sarria wanted to go back to visit the Benedictine monastery in Samos but it was 12 km away and she didn’t want to walk all the way back. Her other option would be to take a taxi but it would be too expensive. She began to ask around if anyone had a car and would be going in the direction of Samos and before long a stranger taps her from the back and offers her a ride to the monastery!!!

Ramona was traveling on the Camino for the second time because she absolutely fell in love with it. In spite the pain and physical hardship that one endures, it does not begin to compare to the indescribable transformation that occurs in one’s soul when one decides to do the Camino. It’s like for a short period of your life you are able to take yourself outside of time and be embraced by simplicity, where everyday becomes a nature walk of spiritual and self reflection. It is profoundly liberating!!!



Ramona and I arrived at the monastery at 5:20 p.m. We checked into the albergue, dropped off our things and went to the cloister of the monastery for the grand tour. This monastery was built in the sixth century and they currently have about 8 monks living in it. Nowadays it is a spiritual centre.

As we went on the tour, I astounded by the richness of the history of this place. Many kings have studied in this monastery and were taught by scholar monks. I prayed that I may experience the Lord in a special way in this sacred place and my prayers were immediately answered. Shortly after the tour we went inside the magnificent cathedral and the monks positioned themselves in the front and began to sing the Gregorian chant in Latin. Upon hearing the sound of such holy and ancient Latin tunes I felt a deep sense of peace in my soul that I cannot describe.

Later that evening I sat outside to eat my dinner which for that day consisted of cheese and crackers and I met a French guy named Thomas. I introduced myself and he sat down beside me. We spoke about our backgrounds, culture, and our experiences on the Camino. After a while, Thomas began to tell me that when his father died a few years ago he was really broken. In an effort to console himself, he took the remains of his father’s ashes, placed it inside his backpack and walked the Camino de Santiago as a form of spending quality time with his dad and finding inner peace. He told me that when he was close to completing the 800 km walk and was about to reach Compostela, he felt great sorrow. He didn't want it to end and wished that the road continued on indefinitely because there was something about the journey that really calmed his spirit and gave him the peace that yearned for. I listened attentively to his story and I sensed a trace of sadness in his voice. I was deeply moved by his sincerity and openness even though he did not event know me. We connected somehow because of the Camino. He shared with me his personal life experience that was buried in depths of his soul as if we had been best friends for many years. We talked throughout the night and I was very happy to have met him.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Day 7 – O Cebreiro


The group of pilgrims in Villafranca were early birds and the majority of them got up at 5:30 a.m. and started getting ready. The morning walk did not look very promising because there was a heavy thunder storm. I packed my things and went to the lunch room downstairs to have my breakfast. I sat in the same table as Kuen and his sister and began conversing with them.

The path to O Cebreiro was 30 km away and it was not very direct so I asked Kuen if I could walk with him since he had a special map and a guide book. As we walked together I got to know Kuen a bit better and I was amazed by how intelligent he was. He knew how to fluently speak five languages. It was interesting to see him converse in German, French, Dutch, Spanish, and English. He had a University degree in linguistics and literature and he was also an expert hiker. He’s done many expeditions before and absolutely enjoyed it. His favorite is the Pyrenees because his heart completely fell in love with it.


At around 1:00 p.m. we took a small lunch break half way through the walk and shared our meals. We needed to re-energize before we hiked up the mountain.



The ascent to the mountains of Leon to Galicia was truly mesmerizing. We reached an altitude of 1400ft in level with the clouds. In O Cebreiro I had the most unforgettable experience of reaching the summit that offered breathtaking panoramas of some of the most incredibly beautiful places on earth. I felt close to God on such occasion especially when I prayed in reverent submission.


Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Day 6 – Villafranca del Bierzo


I abruptly woke up at 6:00 a.m. at the sound of loud Irish bag pipes. At first I thought it was a CD that the German couple (who ran the place) played to wake all the pilgrims. It definitely worked!! Later on I discovered it was actually the real instrument being played.


We had a nice community breakfast downstairs and met with other pilgrims. We took turns sharing our experiences and struggles along the Camino. Afterwards, once I had packed all my things and was ready to go, I bid my friend Jonathan farewell. Jonathan was a very sincere and remarkable person. He is a writer and he always shared with me profound insights about literature, societal structures, and his various past experiences. I enjoyed his company and I learned a great deal from him. We exchanged contact info and I promised to keep in touch. God willing, I may visit him in Australia next year when I go to World Youth day.

I went to the central bus station to take the bus to Villafranca and from there I will finish off the journey to Compostela on foot. It was about a 6.5 hr bus ride so I took quite a number of pictures on the way.

I arrived in VillaFrance at 7:30 p.m. and went straight to the albergue. I was a bit worried because it was late and the usual consequence of arriving late is being forced to sleep outside. By God providence I was able to get the last available bed!!!

Another pilgrim arrived fifteen minutes after me but because the albergue was full he was turned away. A Belgium guy named Kuen saw the situation and kindly offered his spot (that he already paid for) for the new pilgrim even though he did not know him. I was deeply moved by his sincere act of kindness towards a complete stranger. Kuen pitched his tent outside and that evening it rained.

On the Camino de Santiago I met some of the most extraordinary people whose character and virtues radiated such positive energy that I truly admired.


Monday, August 27, 2007

Day 5 – Pamplona


Jonathan and I left the monastery of Iglesia de Trindad at 8:00 a.m. and headed for Pamplona. Pamplona is famous for the San Fermín festival, on July 7, also known as the running of the bulls or 'encierro'. Hundreds of thousands of Spaniards and tourists gather every year in Pamplona for the San Fermin Festival.


Originally, my plan for the day was to take a bus from Pamplona to Leon and visit the beautiful Cathedral. Unfortunately, when I arrived at the bus station they informed me that the last bus had already left. So I bought my ticket for the next day and Jonathan and I checked into the albergue to drop off our things and explored the city.

Pamplona was beautiful and had a very unique charm to it. We toured around various shops, museums, and had a three course meal at a nice restaurant. It was a nice little break from the long hours of walking we accustomed to everyday.



Sunday, August 26, 2007

Day 4 – Iglesia de Trinidad


I woke up at around 7:00 a.m. at the sound of all the other pilgrims shuffling their things and getting ready for the hike. It was Sunday so my priority was to attend mass. Jonathan suggested that instead wasting time and waiting until 9:00 a.m. for the restaurants to open and have breakfast in Zubiri, we should just go to the next town in Larrasoana which was only about 4 km away and have breakfast there. His suggestion seemed reasonable so we headed off only to discover that in the small town of Larraoana everything was closed until 1:00 p.m. because it was Sunday!!


By that time, I was very hungry but because we wanted to go to the small monastery in the next town and we needed to arrive early to secure a bed, we could not afford to wait until 1:00 p.m. to eat. And so we set off on the trail again and walked 15 km to the next town on an empty stomach. We took a series of breaks and with God’s help we reached our destination four hours later.


We went inside the monastery called Iglesia de Trinidad and registered.
We quickly placed our thing on our beds and instantly went out in search of a restaurant. By that time it was about 3:00 p.m. and apparently in Spain everything shuts down for an hour at 3:00 p.m. We were surprised to see that the streets were deserted!!


I was exceptionally exhausted and hungry and the mere thought of not being able to eat for another hour caused me a greater discomfort. I earnestly prayed that we would find a restaurant that was still opened. At first it seemed hopeless because all the ones we passed by on the streets were closed but I was not yet ready to give up. I continued to walk aimlessly in spite of my weariness particularly being attentive to the slightest indication that a restaurant or store might be opened. By God’s grace I was able to find one that was still opened and I felt a great sense of relief. I quickly went in and ordered four dishes of moderate portions.

After I had eaten and was satisfied I regained my sense of composure. I have never felt this desperate in my life where the only thing I could think of was satisfying my hunger. Even when I was volunteering at the orphanage in Mexico we always had something to eat, even though some days it would only be a piece of corn. It was never to the point where my body truly craved for it.

This experience was just a taste of what Jesus must have felt when he went to the dessert for forty days. At this primitive state, one’s sense of rational judgment begins to be impaired to the point where satisfying this basic physical need is all one can think of. Hence, reaffirming Maslow’s hierarchy of need theory.

Later that evening after I had attend mass at church, hand washed my clothes and did all that was necessary I reflected and evaluated my actions. I asked myself “In my weariness and hunger, did I respond in a manner that was pleasing to God”? I could not definitively say “yes” because my focus deviated from God and was more on the food. I was a bit discouraged again because even with our best intentions we never know how we will respond until we are actually placed in such dire circumstances.

In my devotional time, God provided me with tremendous encouragement. I came across the verse in 2 Chronicles 15:7 “But as for you, be strong and do not give up for your work will be rewarded”. This verse truly uplifted my heart and gave me the inspiration to relentlessly strive to reach my destination in Compostela in spite of the difficulties and challenges that may present itself along the way. Furthermore, I came across 2 Chronicles 16:9 “For the eyes of the Lord range throughout the earth to strengthen those whose hearts are fully committed to him”. I felt great comfort and refreshed hope for the marvelous journey ahead of me.